Guide to Cruelty-Free Skincare & Cosmetics

Does Your Skincare Actually Sink In? The Truth About Product Penetration

Ever wondered if the skincare products you are investing in are actually being absorbed by your skin? Never mind the associated costs and the desired results, let's delve into the reality of ingredient penetration and absorption to deliver on those stated claims.

Let’s take a look at the function of the skin, our largest organ, and how it operates as our protective barrier.

The skin is made up of three layers:

1. The epidermis, known as the waterproof barrier, sits at the top. Within the epidermis is the stratum corneum, which is made up of dead skin cells arranged like tiles on a roof, overlapping one another and glued together with fatty acids.
2. The dermis is the middle layer of the skin and where elastin, collagen, connective tissue, blood vessels, hair follicles, and sweat glands reside.   
3. And finally, the bottom layer of the skin is called the hypodermis, the innermost layer of the skin that comprises fat and connective tissue. 

When talking about skincare products, it's important to note that skin is not a sponge. "Most topical skincare products work on the surface of the skin, in the epidermis (top layer), and only a small percentage of ingredients are absorbed deeper to reach the dermis," confirms board-certified dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss.

This is because the stratum corneum, with its tight network of cells and lipids, is designed to keep things out, acting as a formidable barrier against the outside world.

Factors Affecting Absorption:

While the skin's barrier function is a primary factor, other elements influence how well skincare products penetrate:

• Molecule Size: Smaller molecules have a better chance of passing through the stratum corneum.
• Lipophilicity: Ingredients that are "oil-loving" (lipophilic) can more easily integrate with the skin's lipid-rich environment.
• Concentration: A higher concentration of an active ingredient may lead to increased penetration.
• Formulation: The way a product is formulated (e.g., serum, cream, ointment) affects its ability to deliver ingredients.
• Skin Condition: Compromised skin barriers (due to dryness, irritation, or conditions like eczema) may allow for greater penetration.
• Application Technique: Gentle massage can sometimes enhance absorption by increasing blood flow and contact time.

Ingredients That Actually Penetrate:

While most ingredients stay on the surface, some have been shown to penetrate the stratum corneum to some extent. These include:

• Small Molecular Weight Ingredients: Hyaluronic acid (in its smaller forms like hyaluronate), certain peptides, and some vitamins (like Vitamin C) can penetrate to a degree.
• Vitamins: Other vitamins like Vitamin A derivatives (beyond just retinol, such as retinyl esters) and Vitamin E can also penetrate to some extent. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), although primarily known for its barrier-strengthening properties, can also penetrate the stratum corneum. 
• Lipophilic Ingredients: Retinoids (like retinol) are oil-soluble and can effectively penetrate the skin.
• Chemical Exfoliants: AHAs (like glycolic and lactic acid) and BHAs (like salicylic acid) work by loosening the bonds between skin cells, allowing for better penetration of other ingredients.
• Enzymes: Certain enzymes, like papain or bromelain (derived from papaya and pineapple, respectively), can have exfoliating effects and potentially enhance the penetration of other ingredients by breaking down proteins in the upper layers of the skin.
• Squalane: (From Olive Oil): A highly emollient lipid that is easily absorbed into the skin.
  Glycolic Acid: Another AHA and a potent chemical exfoliant that penetrates the stratum corneum.
• Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil: (Tamanu): An oil known for its ability to penetrate the skin.
• Essential Oils: Some essential oils contain compounds that may enhance penetration, like Lavender, Lemongrass and Citrus Oils.
  
• Carrier Systems: Some formulations use "carrier systems" like liposomes or microencapsulation to help deliver ingredients deeper into the skin.

Tips for Maximizing Product Absorption:

While you can't drastically alter your skin's natural barrier, you can optimize your skincare routine to improve product absorption:

1. Cleanse Properly: Start with a clean base using Lactic Acid, An AHA that exfoliates and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients.to remove dirt, oil, and debris that can hinder absorption.
2. Exfoliate Regularly: Gentle exfoliation (physical or chemical) removes dead skin cells, allowing products to penetrate more effectively.
3. Apply Products in the Right Order: Apply thinnest to thickest. Serums with smaller molecules should generally go on before heavier creams.
4. Use Targeted Treatments: Serums and concentrates often have higher concentrations of active ingredients designed for better penetration.
5. Consider Occlusives: Applying a layer of an occlusive like the RE+NU Luxury Beauty Oil as the last step can help to seal in other products and enhance their absorption.
6. Be Patient and Consistent: Results take time. Consistent use of well-formulated products is key.

The Takeaway:

While your skin is a powerful barrier, certain ingredients and formulation techniques can help skincare products penetrate beyond the surface. Understanding the factors that affect absorption can help you make informed choices about your skincare routine and maximize the benefits of your products.

What are your favorite tips for maximizing skincare absorption? Share them in the comments below!

What is Face Exfoliation?

5 Reasons Why You Should Exfoliate Your Face

1.) Removes Dead Skin Cells & Promotes Cell Turnover

2.) Improves Circulation 

3.) Unclogs Your Pores

4.) Allows For Better Product Absorption

5.) Brightens Your Complexion

 5 FAQ's About Face Exfoliation

Q: Is it OK to Exfoliate Your Face Daily?

Q: Is it Better to Exfoliate at Night or in The Morning?

Q: Should I Moisturize After Exfoliating?

Q: What Happens if You Don't Exfoliate Your Face?

Q: Do You Use Face Wash or Scrub First?

How to Exfoliate Your Face in 3 Easy Steps 

Now that we've gone into what face exfoliation is, the benefits, and answered some frequently asked questions, let's go into HOW to exfoliate your face for the best results.

Step 1: Scoop out the product into the palm of damp hands and blend it into a mousse like consistency.

Step 2: Apply to your wet face. You'll want to start at your cheeks and move into a circular motion, moving up towards your nose and forehead.

Step 3: Rinse your face with warm water (not hot), and gently wash away the product. You can repeat this 2-3 times a week after cleansing your face with a cleanser.

Will You Be Incorporating Face Exfoliation Into Your Skincare Routine?

4 Benefits of a Morning Skincare Routine

1.) Cleanse Your Face of Impurities

Starting your morning off with cleansing your face with a gentle yet effective moisturizer will help to draw out any dirt or impurities that have accumulated overnight. If you use other skincare products or apply makeup, this buildup of impurities can reduce the effectiveness of other products as it limits the absorbency into your skin. Cleaning your face every morning can help you avoid this, on top of making your face feel fresh and clean.

2.) Easier Makeup Application

Like stated above, if you don't start off your day with a skincare routine, especially cleansing, you are limiting the benefits and absorbency of your other products, including makeup application. If your skin isn't looking or feeling it's best, chances are your makeup won't either. If you prep your skin well and take care of it, you'll notice an immense difference in your makeup application, especially over time.

3.) Helps to Moisturize Your Face For The Day

4.) Helps to Protect Your Skin

Last but certainly the most important aspect of a morning skincare routine is to protect your skin. When you use quality products to help cleanse and nourish your skin, you're also adding protection against the free radicals you may encounter in the environment.

Easy 4 Step Morning Skincare Routine & How to Layer Your Products

Here at Renu, we believe that skincare doesn't have to be complicated or extensive. That's why we've created a skincare line that isn't only nourishing for you skin, but that is easy when life get's busy. Let's dive into this easy 4 step morning skincare routine!

1.) Cleanse Your Face

The first step in any skincare routine is cleansing your face. We recommend using a gentle yet effective cleanser such as RENU Purifying Gel Cleanser. This cleanser is plant powered and is great at removing bacteria, pollutants, and impurities yet gentle on the skin. Check out these "Top 5 Facial Cleanser Benefits" to see more on the benefits of cleanser!

How to apply: Dispense 1 pump of cleanser and apply to damp skin. Cleanse in a circular motion and rinse with warm water!

If you feel comfortable adding an extra step, you can then use a facial toner. This will help to balance and boost your complexion and minimize the appearance of pores.

Step 2: Exfoliate Your Face

Step 3: Moisturize Your Face

Step 4: Seal Your Morning Skincare Routine with Facial Oil

Will You Be Incorporating These Steps Into Your Morning Skincare Routine?